Rare, glorious large JOSEFF OF HOLLYWOOD sapphire blue and clear crystal flower pin. Features open-backed and unfoiled, bezel set, multi-faceted sapphire blue crystal petals, a clear crystal center with antiqued silvertone gilt leaves and Silver-plated base metal. Measures 2 1/2 in diameter. Signed JOSEFF HOLLYWOOD (Joseff's earliest signature, dating to 1940's). Inclusion on one petal and a surface chip on another.
Mentioned for accuracy as flaws do not show when worn. Book references here can be found on page 225 of Brunialti's'American Costume Jewelry, Art & Industry, 1935-50', Volume 1, page 181 of Harrice Simons Miller's'Costume Jewelry, The Confident Collector', and page 82 of Judith Miller's'Costume Jewelry'.Eugene Joseff (1905-48) decided to leave the Midwest in the 1920's and his career in advertising in search of better economic opportunities. He moved to Los Angeles where the motion-picture industry thrived. The charismatic Joseff soon befriended the famous costume designer Walter Plunkett (1902-82) who first inspired Joseff to create jewelry for Hollywood films.
Joseff, who at a young age apprenticed at a foundry, began experimenting with making jewelry in the garage of his Sunset Boulevard home. He developed a matte metal finish for his jewelry, which minimized the glare from the strong studio lights. One reason Joseff was so successful in Hollywood was that he developed a special plating technique known as the "antique" or "Renaissance look" that gave his jewelry a veneer of authenticity. Even better, his pieces didn't reflect the bright lights used during the filming. Today, people are still trying to figure out his plating technique that creates that Renaissance feel, which gives a piece a look like it has an age about it. It isn't just bright and shiny-it has depth. No one else has actually figured out that process yet. I've seen some people try to replicate it, and so far they've been unsuccessful. The pieces that they make are sort of muddy looking, almost like they've got dirt on them. His movie pieces were quite vibrant. That antique look was his signature in Hollywood.He also amassed a reference library to aid him in the creation of pieces for historic films. He used this reference library to make himself into an invaluable resource to the costume designers of Old Hollywood, allowing them to pore over his tomes for their film projects. Before long, the talented Joseff became the premier costume jeweler in Hollywood, designing, manufacturing, and renting jewelry to movie studios under the brand name Joseff of Hollywood. Joseff created exquisite pieces for famous actresses such as Marlene Dietrich in Shanghai Express, Greta Garbo in Camille, and Vivien Leigh in Gone with the Wind. Hollywood stars now desired Joseff of Hollywood creations to wear off-screen.
Joseff realized the lucrative potential of a retail line, which he began to sell in high-end department stores. He moved to a new location in Burbank, close to the studios but with enough space to expand his operations. With his business quickly growing, Joseff needed someone to manage the day-to-day affairs. Together they were an unstoppable, glamorous pair! By continuing to create designs for "every woman" and converting studio designs for retail sale, the demand for Joseff pieces continued to grow.
Aerospace: From Jewelry to Jets. With the advancement of WWII, the U. Government began seeking out private factories with capabilities that might be helpful to the war effort. With his casting operations, Joseff's factory fit the bill, and was commissioned to make small aerospace parts for U. In the beginning this was a huge hush operation, and Joan Castle Joseff was not even allowed to step into the factory location during this time due to her Canadian born status!
Joseff famously had jewelry and airplane parts going down the same casting line in the shop, coining the phrase From jewelry to jets. Of course, this only helped Joseff of Hollywood's fame, putting the company (and the man) directly center of the romanticized cross over between Hollywood and Aviation. Joseff of Hollywood - fashion designer to the stars!
Joseff of Hollywood Jewelry made it's reputation by providing the vast majority of jewelry used in Hollywood movies during the 1930's, 1940's and 1950's. Gone With The Wind, Around the World in Eighty Days, and Cleopatra are just three of the movies featuring Joseff jewelry. This item is in the category "Jewelry & Watches\Vintage & Antique Jewelry\Brooches & Pins".
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